Hello Friends,
One of the fun and rewarding aspects of enjoying wine is seeking out or being introduced to hidden gems. These delightful surprises can make your whole day and more. Many of these producers—often small both in operation and production—are frequently run by a handful of family members and friends with storied careers, who at the end of the day take pride in making wines of exceptional character and quality. During a recent virtual chat,
Robert Larsen, the Wine Extraordinaire behind
The Larsen Projekt, put just such a winery on my radar.
 |
| “Italian culture is the embodiment of all that nourishes the heart and soul... wine and food, friends and family, and experiences that capture beauty, passion and love. Our wines are an expression of Italy, a connection born from the roots of our heritage, planted in Sonoma County soil, and bottled for your enjoyment so that you might experience a bit of Italy all your own.” ~ Orsi Family Vineyards |
Orsi Family Vineyards is a family-owned, boutique-style producer specializing in small lots of sustainably farmed, Italian-inspired wines, all grown in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. For our chat, we were joined by Bernie Orsi and his son Mark. Bernie grew up around wine, cleaning out the basket press for his father who made wine in an alley back in the 1950s in San Pedro (Los Angeles).
Bernie’s foray into the business started with establishing a vineyard in the early 1990s—growing the usual suspects (e.g., Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot), and selling fruit to other wineries. A trip to Ischia, a volcanic island off the coast of Naples in southern Italy, sparked his inspiration to produce Italian varietal wines. Bernie’s grandmother was from the island, and Bernie had grown fond of the region’s Biancolella D'Ischia, an expressive and fresh white wine. Other Italian wines also piqued his interest—especially those that could be enjoyed with family and friends over the course of a good meal.
 |
| Orsi Family Wines 2018 Fiano |
In 2012, with winemaker Dick Schultz at the helm, Orsi Family Vineyards released their first vintage. Today, the winery produces upwards of twelve Italian varietals from their 20-acre home vineyard in Healdsburg. Bernie’s gamble that old-world Italian varieties could perform well in Sonoma’s soil and climate paid off. These wines are simply delicious. Fiano, Biancolella and Sagrantino may not be household grape names in the States, but they are distinctive and really worth paying attention to. These limited-production wines are sold direct-to-consumer via the
website. For those of you near Sonoma,
contact the winery to schedule an appointment. I had an opportunity to try four of their wines, and I invite you to see my tasting notes below.
Orsi Family Wines 2018 Fiano (SRP $26): Fiano [pronounced fee-AH-noh] is a high-quality variety that has been grown throughout southern Italy’s Campania region for centuries. The Orsi family grows almost an acre of it. This medium-bodied wine is very aromatic; think rose petals, citrus zest and ripe tropical fruits. The flavors mirror the nose and are supported by a welcomed lift of bright yet tangy acidity. So fresh and delightful, I can drink this type of wine all day long. Only 100 cases of this wine were produced. Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California. Other info: ABV 13.8%, 100% Fiano, cork enclosure.
Click here to find this wine.
 |
| Orsi Family Wines 2018 Biancolella d'Ischia |
Orsi Family Wines 2018 Biancolella d'Ischia (SRP $26): This may be the only commercial planting of Biancolella [pronounced Bee-yan-co-lay-la] in all of California. The Orsi family grows less than an acre of it. The grape hails from the island of Ischia, the birthplace of Bernie’s paternal grandmother Filomena, and for which the vineyard block is named. For many wine drinkers, Biancolella is unique, delightful and delicious—if not a new favorite. Medium-bodied, aromas of white pitted fruit and honeysuckle merge with spice and slight nutty flavors. A wonderful food wine thanks to its fresh, mouth-watering acidity. Only 90 cases of this wine were produced. Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California. Other info: ABV 13.9%, 100% Biancolella d'Ischia, cork enclosure.
Click here to find this wine.
 |
| Orsi Family Wines 2014 Sagrantino |
Orsi Family Wines 2014 Sagrantino (SRP $34): You don’t see this red grape [pronounced sah-grahn-TEE-noh] much in the States, but it’s the jewel of Umbria in central Italy. There, it is exclusively featured in Sagrantino di Montefalco, a deeply colored, long-lived, substantial red wine. This example is savory at its core, with dark-skinned stone fruit flavors accented by spice and anise, balanced by finely chiseled but firm tannins. I enjoyed this wine with smoked rib-eye steak (cherry and hickory woods). It was an excellent pairing, with good interplay between the protein in the meat and the tannins in the wine (which had good balancing acidity to boot!). Only 90 cases of this wine were produced. Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California. Other info: ABV 13.8%, released Nov. 2018, 100% Sagrantino, cork enclosure.
Click here to find this wine.
 |
| Orsi Family Wines 2015 Sangiovese |
Orsi Family Wines 2015 Sangiovese (SRP $28): Sangiovese is Italy's most widely planted grape variety. The Orsi family has approximately two acres of it planted. This Dry Creek Valley rendition is sturdy and broad-shouldered. Notes of dried red berries, underbrush, spice and a trace of wood smoke lay in a frame of firm tannins, gaining on the long, flavorful finish. This wine begs for food of some type. A well-marbled piece of beef or grilled portobello tops my list. Only 90 cases of this wine were produced. Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California. Other info: ABV 13.8%, 100% Sangiovese, released Nov. 2018, cork enclosure.
Click here to find this wine.
